Cut registry › Jewellery cuts › Teardrop
Jewellery cuts · Elongated brilliant
Teardrop Cut Diamond
A pear by another name.
Teardrop is the everyday name for a pear, and the library carries a second geometry under
it. It throws more colour than our reference pear and distributes its light far less evenly.
- Facets
- 74
- Length : width
- 1.45
- Table
- 55.6%
- Depth
- 60.0%
- Pavilion
- 40°
The short version
A teardrop cut diamond is a brilliant with one rounded end and one point, the same outline family
as a pear, carrying 74 facets on our measurement.
Teardrop and pear describe the same shape. This page measures a second, more heavily faceted
geometry that the trade also sells under both names.
Definition
What is a Teardrop cut diamond?
There is no technical distinction between a teardrop and a pear. Both are brilliant cuts with a
head, shoulders, a belly, wings and a point, and a grading report will describe either as a pear
modified brilliant.
What differs between individual stones is proportion and facet plan, and that difference is
large. Our reference pear carries 64 measured facets;
this stone carries 74. They are sold under the same words and they do not behave alike.
The point is the vulnerability on either. A V-prong, a bezel or a halo makes it as wearable as
any brilliant; an exposed point in a plain claw setting is what chips.
Proportions
Teardrop diamond proportions, and what to look for
Trade description on the left, our measured reference stone on the right. Ratio
on a teardrop is preference and setting driven, as it is on any pear.
A report will call this a pear modified brilliant, exactly as it would call our
reference pear one. There is no cut grade for either, and nothing on the report distinguishes a
74-facet stone from a 64-facet one.
Light
How light behaves in a teardrop cut
Measured on the census that runs on every cut on this site: 3,200 rays face-up, 2,200
at 20° tilt, on exact facet geometry, against T57 as the standard.
The teardrop returns 46.02% of entering light usefully and leaks 28.13%, for 71.40
Global against the standard’s 88.61. It lands within a fifth of a point of our
reference pear at 71.55, and gets there differently.
It buys colour and pays in light. Fire reads 89.08 against the pear’s
83.80, one of the highest figures we publish, on 74 facets against the
pear’s 64. Useful return falls to 46.02% from the pear’s 53.36%.
Its light is the most unevenly distributed of any elongated brilliant we measure. Binned
by exit point along its length, it runs 22.4% at one end, 77.4% across the belly and
33.6% at the other, a centre-to-edge spread of 50.2 points. A round brilliant is
flat at 99.1% against 98.1%. Only the crownless
Pixel is more extreme, and that is by design.
Where the light is: useful return from point to head
22.4%
Point
66.1%
77.4%
Belly
39.2%
33.6%
Head
Five equal bands along the long axis, each returning ray binned by the point on the
crown it leaves through. The belly carries the stone and both ends fall away sharply, the point
end worst, for a centre-to-edge spread of 50.2 points against the round-brilliant
control’s 1.0. Setting the point in a V-prong
protects it mechanically. Nothing protects it optically.
Against the standard
Teardrop versus the round brilliant
Light return. 46.02% against the standard’s 92.28%, a Global gap of
17.21 points.
Against our reference pear. 71.40 against 71.55 on Global, but 89.08 of fire
against 83.80 and 46.02% of useful light against 53.36%. More colour, less
light, same name on the report.
Sparkle. 80.69 against 71.82, on 74 facets against 57.
Evenness. The worst of the elongated brilliants. The belly returns 77.4% and the
point end 22.4%.
Durability. The point needs a V-prong, a bezel or a halo, exactly as any pear does.
The baseline for all of this is the round brilliant itself. Its facet plan is set out in
the anatomy of a round brilliant, and the measured
standard we compare against is T57, the stone Tolkowsky published
in 1919.
Put them side by side →
Materials
Teardrop in diamond, moissanite and cubic zirconia
In moissanite the teardrop returns 39.03% for 71.25 Global, with fire at 95.99.
On a cut whose strength is already colour, moissanite pushes further in the same direction.
In cubic zirconia it returns 54.50% for 74.11 Global.
Set it against the reference pear in the Index.
Trade-offs
What the teardrop cut gives, and what it costs
In its favour
- Fire of 89.08, among the highest figures we publish.
- Carries 74 measured facets, well above our reference pear’s 64.
- Scintillation of 80.69 against the standard’s 71.82.
- The teardrop outline reads longer on the hand than a round of the same weight.
- Generally less expensive per carat than a comparable round.
Against it
- The most uneven light distribution of the elongated brilliants: 77.4% at the belly against 22.4% at the point.
- Returns 46.02% of entering light against the standard’s 92.28%, and less than our reference pear.
- Leaks 28.13% against the standard’s 1.88%.
- The point needs a protective setting.
- Indistinguishable from any other pear on a grading report, despite behaving differently.
Questions
Teardrop cut diamonds: frequently asked questions
The questions buyers actually ask, answered in full. Where the answer is
ours to prove, the figure is measured on the Index; where it is an
established gemological fact, it is stated as one.
What is a teardrop cut diamond?
A teardrop cut diamond is a brilliant with one rounded end and one point. Teardrop and pear describe the same shape, and a grading report will call either a pear modified brilliant. This page measures a second, more heavily faceted geometry that the trade sells under both names.
Is a teardrop the same as a pear shaped diamond?
As a shape, yes, and no laboratory distinguishes them. As individual stones, not necessarily: our reference teardrop carries 74 measured facets and our reference pear 64, and they behave differently. The teardrop throws more fire, 89.08 against 83.80, and returns less light, 46.02% against 53.36%.
Why does one end of a teardrop look darker than the other?
Because the shape is asymmetrical along its own axis and its light is asymmetrical to match. Binned by exit point, our reference teardrop returns 22.4% at the point end, 77.4% across the belly and 33.6% at the rounded head. That is the most uneven distribution of any elongated brilliant we publish, and a round brilliant by comparison is flat.
What is the best length-to-width ratio for a teardrop?
The classic pear range is 1.45 to 1.75, with roughly 1.55 to 1.60 regarded as the sweet spot for a solitaire. Our reference teardrop sits at 1.45. It is a preference and setting decision: narrower stones suit drop earrings, fuller ones suit rings.
Are teardrop diamonds durable?
Yes, provided the point is protected. A V-prong, a bezel or a halo shields the one vulnerable part, and with that in place it wears like any other brilliant. An exposed point in an ordinary claw setting is the arrangement that leads to chips.
Which way should a teardrop diamond point?
Conventionally toward the fingertip, which lengthens the finger. There is no rule: east-west settings and toi et moi pairings both place the shape differently on purpose and both are long established.
Does a teardrop have a bow-tie?
Most elongated brilliants show some. It is a shadow rather than a leak: the facets across the waist draw their light from the region of sky the viewer’s own head and shoulders block, so it darkens and lifts as the stone moves. We do not publish a bow-tie severity figure, because our engine contains no observer and cannot cast a head shadow.
Does GIA give teardrop diamonds a cut grade?
No. GIA issues cut grades for round brilliants only, and it does not use the word teardrop at all: the report will read pear modified brilliant. Symmetry and polish are graded, and on this shape the symmetry grade is the one worth reading closely.
Method
Ray census
Monte-Carlo on exact facet geometry: 3,200 rays face-up plus 2,200 at
20° tilt, cosine-weighted from a 7° near-vertical cone. Useful light is what exits through
the crown within 64° of vertical. The same protocol runs on every cut on this site, so the
figures are comparable to each other.
What the figures describe
They measure our reference geometry for the shape
at the proportions listed above, not an average of stones on the market. A teardrop
cut to different proportions will read differently. Treat them as a like-for-like comparison
between shapes, not as a grade for any individual stone.
Read with care
Engine estimates, ±2 points, not lab-certified grades. We do
not publish the Index symmetry axis on these pages: it scores facet regularity within each
pavilion family, which is meaningful for a round brilliant and misleading for a shape whose
pavilion is deliberately irregular.
Scintillation
80.69 here against the standard’s 71.82.
The term is 100(1−e−n/45) on the count of facets
that actually reach the surface, so it is a pure function of facet count and nothing else.